CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
- SurfnSun
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
That’s the AIR pump tube
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
Back on my car, I took a bit of a break over the winter and spring. It's the down side of having a lift, you can just lift it up out of the way and forget about it! I ended up pulling the intake while I was into it this far, in the hope of making it hold oil. The rear china wall was definitely leaking and the distributor gasket was completely smashed out. I'm optimistic that it will not be a dripper, at least significantly slowed. I also had the injectors rebuilt and flowed.
I media blasted the plenum, runners, and valve covers and used the VHT wrinkle paint as original. Intake was just cleaned up, along with everything else. I'll get the motivation to finish up the under car work pretty soon, I hope before it's ski season again
I media blasted the plenum, runners, and valve covers and used the VHT wrinkle paint as original. Intake was just cleaned up, along with everything else. I'll get the motivation to finish up the under car work pretty soon, I hope before it's ski season again
- SurfnSun
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
Looking good!!
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
More re-assembly today...
1) I replaced the safety wire on the turbo heat shields with stainless wire. Lots of other little cleanup prep work.
2) Installed the passenger side turbo first. I had left the boost reference line and oil feed line on the engine, so you have to get them situated in the compression fittings as you slide the turbo onto the studs. Installed the flange washers and nuts loosely to hold it with a little bit of wiggle room.
3) Install the coolant line banjo fittings (do this BEFORE torquing the flange nuts all up, or you may not get the one by the frame rail to slide in place, ask me how I know).
4) Tighen the oil feed line fitting with the special 9/16 shorty.
5) Torque the four nuts with the combination of 17mm crowsfeet.
6) Tighten the coolant banjo fittings.
7) Install the wastegate and new gasket, again guiding the boost reference line compression fitting as sliding onto studs. Torque nuts and compression fitting.
8) Tighten compressor inlet duct
9) Install oil drain fitting and new gasket and connect hose to sump.
All in, the passenger turbo only took a little over an hour to get buttoned up. Way easier than removal, when you have the right combination of tools figured out as photographed earlier.
No pics today, I'll grab a few when I get to work on the other side. I'd fail as a YouTuber, but I want to document some of this work, as it is a bit of an intimidating task at first and we need to keep these cars active among hobbyists!
On the question earlier about manifold to head bolts, I have not had to touch them on this project. The manifolds are still fully attached to the heads, no need to drop them - at least on a Rotomaster car.
1) I replaced the safety wire on the turbo heat shields with stainless wire. Lots of other little cleanup prep work.
2) Installed the passenger side turbo first. I had left the boost reference line and oil feed line on the engine, so you have to get them situated in the compression fittings as you slide the turbo onto the studs. Installed the flange washers and nuts loosely to hold it with a little bit of wiggle room.
3) Install the coolant line banjo fittings (do this BEFORE torquing the flange nuts all up, or you may not get the one by the frame rail to slide in place, ask me how I know).
4) Tighen the oil feed line fitting with the special 9/16 shorty.
5) Torque the four nuts with the combination of 17mm crowsfeet.
6) Tighten the coolant banjo fittings.
7) Install the wastegate and new gasket, again guiding the boost reference line compression fitting as sliding onto studs. Torque nuts and compression fitting.
8) Tighten compressor inlet duct
9) Install oil drain fitting and new gasket and connect hose to sump.
All in, the passenger turbo only took a little over an hour to get buttoned up. Way easier than removal, when you have the right combination of tools figured out as photographed earlier.
No pics today, I'll grab a few when I get to work on the other side. I'd fail as a YouTuber, but I want to document some of this work, as it is a bit of an intimidating task at first and we need to keep these cars active among hobbyists!
On the question earlier about manifold to head bolts, I have not had to touch them on this project. The manifolds are still fully attached to the heads, no need to drop them - at least on a Rotomaster car.
- SurfnSun
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
Great update. Look forward to some pics, but I totally get the YouTuber comment. I hate stopping to take photos
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
Glad you are still posting progress, giving me inspiration to get mine finished.
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
Another productive morning. The driver side turbo is easier, other than access to the oil feed line fitting. No real unique lessons learned to report. The exhaust is also buttoned up, but I need to find a better solution for those Oetiker-ish AIR pipe clamps. They are not very reusable and one cracked on me when trying to clamp it down.
Already thinking of the next project, after I put some miles on it to shake down this work. Those huge cats need to go... Everything is so tight around the trans, and the heat must be terrible for everything nearby. I'll probably go for some more modern high flow cats, since I also don't want to smell HC while driving.
I'm still waiting on a couple fittings for the new scavenge pump return line I'm making, hopefully it will run next week. A few pictures for reference.
Already thinking of the next project, after I put some miles on it to shake down this work. Those huge cats need to go... Everything is so tight around the trans, and the heat must be terrible for everything nearby. I'll probably go for some more modern high flow cats, since I also don't want to smell HC while driving.
I'm still waiting on a couple fittings for the new scavenge pump return line I'm making, hopefully it will run next week. A few pictures for reference.
- SurfnSun
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
While you’re in there, wrapping the starter is always a good idea. They have a tendency to get hot and not work til they cool down
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
I'm calling it a success! It fired right up after one mess-up on my part, missing the master vacuum line. It idles 100% smoother with the rebuilt injectors (and im sure fixing quite a few vacuum leaks). I ran it for a few heat cycles in the driveway to purge the cooling system and to let all the surface oils cook off, while watching for leaks and real smoke. So far so good! I took it for a short 10 mile run, bit didn't really get on it too hard until I'm sure everything is good. A few victory photos below.
It was a big job, but very doable. Honestly, the intake removal and reinstall was as bad as the turbos. The redonr plenum, runners, and valve covers really freshen up the look under hood! You can see I painted the dist cover separately from the plenum, oops... I may redo that eventually.
It was a big job, but very doable. Honestly, the intake removal and reinstall was as bad as the turbos. The redonr plenum, runners, and valve covers really freshen up the look under hood! You can see I painted the dist cover separately from the plenum, oops... I may redo that eventually.
- SurfnSun
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Re: CTTC / B2K turbo removal and rebuild
Looking great! Glad to hear you had a successful shakedown run