My Corvette Life: 1990 Callaway Twin Turbo Project

[My Corvette Life]

Can anyone tell me the correct fuel pump and replacement injectors?

[*89x2*]

Regarding the Fuel Pump, here's the info:
http://callawayownersgroup.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=799

On Fuel Injectors, if you can wait for a sale, FIC often discounts 10%-20%, depending on the sale. Mention Callaway Owners Group when you speak to Jon Banner at FIC, as he's treated us very fairly.
Here's' the pert number:
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/coll ... jector-set

The Stock Rochester Greenish Gray units (Branded RP on body near connector for harness) are GARBAGE. The stainless Delphi units are proven reliable, and they FIT. I get an o ring kit (you will need more o-rings to do your rails, if you do the job completely, and I can supply the part numbers from AutZone, locally). I also suggest replacing the regulator if it's sat, which is cheap insurance.

I hope this helps, and look forward to your resulting success.

[SurfnSun]

Bosch 0580254982 is the one listed in the other thread

[My Corvette Life]

Excellent! Thanks you.

[*89x2*]

Hey Chris,

You should push notifications of new videos you add. Looks like 4 have been added since your last post:

[My Corvette Life]

Hey Chris,

You should push notifications of new videos you add. Looks like 4 have been added since your last post:

Subscribe to the channel and click the bell button and you will be notified every time I post a video.

[*89x2*]

Another video added, and to give you insight on your question about why the oil fill is on the driver's side vs. passenger side, it's so you can fill the car with oil without removing the intercooler.
You may not have noticed how the oil cap was far enough back, which allows a small diameter funnel to get in there and fill/top-off.

Now to answer the rest, the switch (the bracket with wires) appears like a nitrous activation switch which were common on NOS systems like the one crudely installed on your car. What happens, is when one goes WOT, it kicks the switch and if activated by a secondary switch (usually in the dash somewhere), then nitrous is fed from the solenoids.

On the spark plug wrap, I can't say for sure about the origins of the silver heat sleeve, but the factory heat covering over the EGR Tube, I mentioned already, it's not removable. Your car has some other shielding not consistent with other Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes, presumably added by the hot rod owner before you. Anyways, the one over the plug wires looks like the velcro closure kind, but was tough to see. Maybe you can confirm

In the meantime, nice job polishing the one intercooler. Here's to the rest taking shape in similar form.

[*89x2*]

I saw another video was added, this one on the owners manual

Keep em coming

[*89x2*]

Saw you added two more videos. A few comments.

On the one where you mentioned removing the injectors and servicing them. Why? Replace them, as the original RP (Rochester Injectors) do not last.

It takes two of them going bad to shut down operation of the car altogether, and if they are marginal, the car will just run poorly. The ones I mentioned will be the best price of the year in November during the FIC Black Friday Sale. If you can wait another month, you will save, and get the right parts.

So before you take apart the intake plenum, humor me. Put an ohm meter on your injectors and see what they read.

Now, on the throttle body, The throttle cable is different too. The way the cable connects is different on 85-88 and 89-91 TPI throttle bodies. I have heard of people swapping the linkages over if needed, but your statement was more about why there appeared to be a difference, and there just is...

On the rattle can satin black you used, perhaps it's the lighting, but how close was the color to what was original to the linkage?

Good luck as you soldier on with this project, but please do it right. Take an additional hour to clean up the innards of the throttle body. Take an extra hour to get the right materials, etc. Take an extra hour to go the extra mile.

[My Corvette Life]

Saw you added two more videos. A few comments.

On the one where you mentioned removing the injectors and servicing them. Why? Replace them, as the original RP (Rochester Injectors) do not last.

It takes two of them going bad to shut down operation of the car altogether, and if they are marginal, the car will just run poorly. The ones I mentioned will be the best price of the year in November during the FIC Black Friday Sale. If you can wait another month, you will save, and get the right parts.

Now, on the throttle body, The throttle cable is different too. The way the cable connects is different on 85-88 and 89-91 TPI throttle bodies. I have heard of people swapping the linkages over if needed, but your statement was more about why there appeared to be a difference, and there just is...

On the rattle can satin black you used, perhaps it's the lighting, but how close was the color to what was original to the linkage?

Good luck as you soldier on with this project, but please do it right. Take an additional hour to clean up the innards of the throttle body. Take an extra hour to get the right materials, etc. Take an extra hour to go the extra mile.

I will be replacing the injectors. I wanted to verify what they were first because I know the previous owner replaced them back in 2000. If they were the Delphi units they may have been worth getting serviced, but they are not. Thanks for the tip on the Black Friday sale. I'll wait until then.

The black paint I'm using is pretty close. I actually just order a few cans of real chassis black paint so its as durable as the original.

I've taken apart the entire throttle body and cleaned everything.