1988Callaway#16 wrote: ↑Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:53 pm
Welcome Chris! Nice find. I’ll be subscribing and watching. I have an 88 Callaway convertible #16 that needs some work also. Kevin
I’ll watch, but don’t subscribe (tin foil hat on), as this is interesting to armchair observe. I got nuthin to really add which hasn’t been said other than I fixed up a few TPI cars in my time and everything said so far is right
How’s 88/016 coming along, and where’s those videos
I’d watch that also if you did some to go with your work
*89x2* wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 7:40 pm
Chris, look at SEM Brand paints. They are nice, and spray evenly with good matches to o.e. colors for trim, etc.
Glad to continue help. Perhaps you will consider adding a plug for www.callawayownersgroup.com to your videos
In the meantime, a few things to note on your latest clip...
The triangular plate is from the NOS kit. It was installed to move the geometry of the throttle linkage forward with the NOS plate sandwiched in the throttle body/plenum area. It's not some fabbed up bracket as you explained. Whoever installed the NOS kit, butchered the lower bolt. Extract it, then helicoil the threads to install the factory bracket back into place.
Next, take a look at your emblem on the plenum - the bowtie should be RED. You can touch that up easily, but don't miss it.
For covering ports, I like to use Frog Brand painters tape. It's super sticky, but easy to remove. I would not stuff paper rags in ports or think it would keep debris from those turbo tubes. Use extreme care, please.
Additionally, I was in my shop and want to share with you some additional parts which WILL come in handy during your restoration. Injector Clips and O-Rings.
BWD # 274773 = O Ring Kit for the TPI Rails
Sorensen #800-9417 = Fuel Injector Retention Clips (they may stretch or snap while removing them during injector swap)
Thanks for the mention of the Callaway Owners Group in your clip
In the one post I made above, you can get the o-ring kit from AutoZone to take care of all the ones needed on the fuel rail
The stock injectors were 22 lbs and for 1989-1991, were Rochester Products with the numbers: 1209 5235435 on the top of the body of each
Ford SVO Branded injectors were a popular mod, but that's not what you have.
Your injectors are, as you say, from a Daewoo, which was a car manufacturer owned by GM. Anyways, Rochester Products was another GM subsidiary, and that's why the fuel system was full of their parts in the 80s/90s.
I'd be VERY curious still what each injector ohm reading might be. You can bench test still.
Good score on the oil primer, and thank you again for the mention of www.CallawayOwnersGroup.com in your videos
On the "aluminum spray", that's nice, but aluminum is very easily cleaned in a hot tank for most parts. A good machinist or machine shop can help with this, and it's relatively inexpensive. The problem with painting aluminum is that you are just covering dirt/debris, and the "paint" will flake off eventually, regardless of what kind. Spend the time, do it right
Speaking of aluminum, you will find several anodized (Blue) parts on your car. Be careful with those, preserving their finish. The AC Compressor manifold is one, you will see a pulley, some turbo-related fittings, and other stuff, as well.
On the scope, looks like the cylinder heads (casting 10088113) are the 1988-1990 Corvette castings. Once you get the valve covers off, check the rocker arms, they look like they are full roller rocker arms
The triangular black (rusted) pan is a sump for the oil system. The turbos are also water cooled, but you'll find those lines when you remove the banjo fittings off the turbos.
Original catalytic convertors are gone. Those bullet cats might be loaded inside, or not. Will be interesting to see. The 88L-91 cars had two AC cats with a straight pipe in the center, then to a factory Y pipe with the factory sport mufflers and Callaway embossed oval tip.
The disconnected harness beside the transmission *might* be the CAGS plug for the 1-4 skip shift. It was frequently disconnected to avoid skip shift function, but generally plugged w/ caps. Yours is hammered, and tough to tell exactly what it is. Let us know once you trace out the wires.
Keep pushing on, as you're right, this is a great car to save.