Hello! My Name is Chris and I have a YouTube channel called My Corvette Life. I primarily produce videos showing "How-To" maintenance and restoration projects. My next project will be a 1990 Callaway Twin Turbo (B2K). This is #34 of 58 for 1990.
This car has been sitting in a storage garage, being neglected, for 15 years (since 2006). It truly is a modern barn find.
I hope you guys will join me on the long journey to bring this car back to it's former glory. I've already read so much helpful information on this forum. It's an incredible resource!
I can see a replacement alternator, possible R134 conversion on AC, and the exhaust was changed. Later Brakes w/ added drilled rotors.
Is the one front wheel bent? Maybe just the camera angle??
The Kooloff glass is a rare option (similar to what was used on ZR-1). You should see LOF Kooloff on the glass.
From the AIR Pump, missing a hose, and the EGR crossover pipe is missing the cover and be CAREFUL what you replace it with - I saw a velcro (closure) one burn once. Be careful!!!
Welcome aboard Chris! I've been subscribed to your channel forever. I love it. Can't wait for the upcoming Callaway series.
-Justin
2007 Callaway Corvette convertible. 3LT, Z51, automatic, polished supercharger, engine covers signed by Reeves Callaway, Atomic Orange Metallic with tan top and interior.
So Chris, what's the plan for the car going forward? You have a bit of work in front of you, but what's the game plan?
What will you start on first? Cosmetics? Mechanical? How about the fluids, including fuel? Does it have the factory greenish/gray RP Injectors, still? I've replaced many sets of these on L98-based cars and can help point you in the right direction, as can others here on the Callaway Owners Group site. We are here to help, and more knowledge than anywhere, including the factory. We live and breathe these cars
On Fuel Injectors, if you can wait for a sale, FIC often discounts 10%-20%, depending on the sale. Mention Callaway Owners Group when you speak to Jon Banner at FIC, as he's treated us very fairly.
Here's' the pert number: https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/coll ... jector-set
The Stock Rochester Greenish Gray units (Branded RP on body near connector for harness) are GARBAGE. The stainless Delphi units are proven reliable, and they FIT. I get an o ring kit (you will need more o-rings to do your rails, if you do the job completely, and I can supply the part numbers from AutZone, locally). I also suggest replacing the regulator if it's sat, which is cheap insurance.
I hope this helps, and look forward to your resulting success.
Another video added, and to give you insight on your question about why the oil fill is on the driver's side vs. passenger side, it's so you can fill the car with oil without removing the intercooler.
You may not have noticed how the oil cap was far enough back, which allows a small diameter funnel to get in there and fill/top-off.
Now to answer the rest, the switch (the bracket with wires) appears like a nitrous activation switch which were common on NOS systems like the one crudely installed on your car. What happens, is when one goes WOT, it kicks the switch and if activated by a secondary switch (usually in the dash somewhere), then nitrous is fed from the solenoids.
On the spark plug wrap, I can't say for sure about the origins of the silver heat sleeve, but the factory heat covering over the EGR Tube, I mentioned already, it's not removable. Your car has some other shielding not consistent with other Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes, presumably added by the hot rod owner before you. Anyways, the one over the plug wires looks like the velcro closure kind, but was tough to see. Maybe you can confirm
In the meantime, nice job polishing the one intercooler. Here's to the rest taking shape in similar form.
On the one where you mentioned removing the injectors and servicing them. Why? Replace them, as the original RP (Rochester Injectors) do not last.
It takes two of them going bad to shut down operation of the car altogether, and if they are marginal, the car will just run poorly. The ones I mentioned will be the best price of the year in November during the FIC Black Friday Sale. If you can wait another month, you will save, and get the right parts.
So before you take apart the intake plenum, humor me. Put an ohm meter on your injectors and see what they read.
Now, on the throttle body, The throttle cable is different too. The way the cable connects is different on 85-88 and 89-91 TPI throttle bodies. I have heard of people swapping the linkages over if needed, but your statement was more about why there appeared to be a difference, and there just is...
On the rattle can satin black you used, perhaps it's the lighting, but how close was the color to what was original to the linkage?
Good luck as you soldier on with this project, but please do it right. Take an additional hour to clean up the innards of the throttle body. Take an extra hour to get the right materials, etc. Take an extra hour to go the extra mile.
*89x2* wrote: ↑Sun Oct 17, 2021 4:13 pm
Saw you added two more videos. A few comments.
On the one where you mentioned removing the injectors and servicing them. Why? Replace them, as the original RP (Rochester Injectors) do not last.
It takes two of them going bad to shut down operation of the car altogether, and if they are marginal, the car will just run poorly. The ones I mentioned will be the best price of the year in November during the FIC Black Friday Sale. If you can wait another month, you will save, and get the right parts.
Now, on the throttle body, The throttle cable is different too. The way the cable connects is different on 85-88 and 89-91 TPI throttle bodies. I have heard of people swapping the linkages over if needed, but your statement was more about why there appeared to be a difference, and there just is...
On the rattle can satin black you used, perhaps it's the lighting, but how close was the color to what was original to the linkage?
Good luck as you soldier on with this project, but please do it right. Take an additional hour to clean up the innards of the throttle body. Take an extra hour to get the right materials, etc. Take an extra hour to go the extra mile.
I will be replacing the injectors. I wanted to verify what they were first because I know the previous owner replaced them back in 2000. If they were the Delphi units they may have been worth getting serviced, but they are not. Thanks for the tip on the Black Friday sale. I'll wait until then.
The black paint I'm using is pretty close. I actually just order a few cans of real chassis black paint so its as durable as the original.
I've taken apart the entire throttle body and cleaned everything.
