CallawayOwnersGroup.com

Can anyone tell me the correct fuel pump and replacement injectors?

Regarding the Fuel Pump, here's the info:
http://callawayownersgroup.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=799

On Fuel Injectors, if you can wait for a sale, FIC often discounts 10%-20%, depending on the sale. Mention Callaway Owners Group when you speak to Jon Banner at FIC, as he's treated us very fairly.
Here's' the pert number:
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/coll ... jector-set

The Stock Rochester Greenish Gray units (Branded RP on body near connector for harness) are GARBAGE. The stainless Delphi units are proven reliable, and they FIT. I get an o ring kit (you will need more o-rings to do your rails, if you do the job completely, and I can supply the part numbers from AutZone, locally). I also suggest replacing the regulator if it's sat, which is cheap insurance.

I hope this helps, and look forward to your resulting success.

Bosch 0580254982 is the one listed in the other thread

Excellent! Thanks you.

Hey Chris,

You should push notifications of new videos you add. Looks like 4 have been added since your last post:

*89x2* wrote: ↑Sat Oct 09, 2021 10:33 am Hey Chris,

You should push notifications of new videos you add. Looks like 4 have been added since your last post:

Subscribe to the channel and click the bell button and you will be notified every time I post a video.

Another video added, and to give you insight on your question about why the oil fill is on the driver's side vs. passenger side, it's so you can fill the car with oil without removing the intercooler.
You may not have noticed how the oil cap was far enough back, which allows a small diameter funnel to get in there and fill/top-off.

Now to answer the rest, the switch (the bracket with wires) appears like a nitrous activation switch which were common on NOS systems like the one crudely installed on your car. What happens, is when one goes WOT, it kicks the switch and if activated by a secondary switch (usually in the dash somewhere), then nitrous is fed from the solenoids.

On the spark plug wrap, I can't say for sure about the origins of the silver heat sleeve, but the factory heat covering over the EGR Tube, I mentioned already, it's not removable. Your car has some other shielding not consistent with other Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes, presumably added by the hot rod owner before you. Anyways, the one over the plug wires looks like the velcro closure kind, but was tough to see. Maybe you can confirm

In the meantime, nice job polishing the one intercooler. Here's to the rest taking shape in similar form.

I saw another video was added, this one on the owners manual

Keep em coming

Saw you added two more videos. A few comments.

On the one where you mentioned removing the injectors and servicing them. Why? Replace them, as the original RP (Rochester Injectors) do not last.

It takes two of them going bad to shut down operation of the car altogether, and if they are marginal, the car will just run poorly. The ones I mentioned will be the best price of the year in November during the FIC Black Friday Sale. If you can wait another month, you will save, and get the right parts.

So before you take apart the intake plenum, humor me. Put an ohm meter on your injectors and see what they read.

Now, on the throttle body, The throttle cable is different too. The way the cable connects is different on 85-88 and 89-91 TPI throttle bodies. I have heard of people swapping the linkages over if needed, but your statement was more about why there appeared to be a difference, and there just is...

On the rattle can satin black you used, perhaps it's the lighting, but how close was the color to what was original to the linkage?

Good luck as you soldier on with this project, but please do it right. Take an additional hour to clean up the innards of the throttle body. Take an extra hour to get the right materials, etc. Take an extra hour to go the extra mile.

*89x2* wrote: ↑Sun Oct 17, 2021 4:13 pm Saw you added two more videos. A few comments.

On the one where you mentioned removing the injectors and servicing them. Why? Replace them, as the original RP (Rochester Injectors) do not last.

It takes two of them going bad to shut down operation of the car altogether, and if they are marginal, the car will just run poorly. The ones I mentioned will be the best price of the year in November during the FIC Black Friday Sale. If you can wait another month, you will save, and get the right parts.

Now, on the throttle body, The throttle cable is different too. The way the cable connects is different on 85-88 and 89-91 TPI throttle bodies. I have heard of people swapping the linkages over if needed, but your statement was more about why there appeared to be a difference, and there just is...

On the rattle can satin black you used, perhaps it's the lighting, but how close was the color to what was original to the linkage?

Good luck as you soldier on with this project, but please do it right. Take an additional hour to clean up the innards of the throttle body. Take an extra hour to get the right materials, etc. Take an extra hour to go the extra mile.

I will be replacing the injectors. I wanted to verify what they were first because I know the previous owner replaced them back in 2000. If they were the Delphi units they may have been worth getting serviced, but they are not. Thanks for the tip on the Black Friday sale. I'll wait until then.

The black paint I'm using is pretty close. I actually just order a few cans of real chassis black paint so its as durable as the original.

I've taken apart the entire throttle body and cleaned everything.

Chris, look at SEM Brand paints. They are nice, and spray evenly with good matches to o.e. colors for trim, etc.

Speaking of things like this, check out this thread: http://callawayownersgroup.com/viewtopic.php?t=1272

Window Weld and SEM Chip Guard are two which come to mind

Window Weld was used to hold AeroBody lenses in place and the Chip Guard is used on the black rub strip and rear plate fill areas of AeroBody.

Hopefully you find this info to be useful in your endeavors.

1988Callaway#16 wrote: ↑Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:53 pm Welcome Chris! Nice find. I’ll be subscribing and watching. I have an 88 Callaway convertible #16 that needs some work also. Kevin

I’ll watch, but don’t subscribe (tin foil hat on), as this is interesting to armchair observe. I got nuthin to really add which hasn’t been said other than I fixed up a few TPI cars in my time and everything said so far is right

How’s 88/016 coming along, and where’s those videos

I’d watch that also if you did some to go with your work

*89x2* wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 7:40 pm Chris, look at SEM Brand paints. They are nice, and spray evenly with good matches to o.e. colors for trim, etc.

Speaking of things like this, check out this thread: http://callawayownersgroup.com/viewtopic.php?t=1272

Window Weld and SEM Chip Guard are two which come to mind

Window Weld was used to hold AeroBody lenses in place and the Chip Guard is used on the black rub strip and rear plate fill areas of AeroBody.

Hopefully you find this info to be useful in your endeavors.

Thanks for these tips. I've noted them down for future use.

Glad to continue help. Perhaps you will consider adding a plug for www.callawayownersgroup.com to your videos

In the meantime, a few things to note on your latest clip...

The triangular plate is from the NOS kit. It was installed to move the geometry of the throttle linkage forward with the NOS plate sandwiched in the throttle body/plenum area. It's not some fabbed up bracket as you explained. Whoever installed the NOS kit, butchered the lower bolt. Extract it, then helicoil the threads to install the factory bracket back into place.

Next, take a look at your emblem on the plenum - the bowtie should be RED. You can touch that up easily, but don't miss it.

For covering ports, I like to use Frog Brand painters tape. It's super sticky, but easy to remove. I would not stuff paper rags in ports or think it would keep debris from those turbo tubes. Use extreme care, please.

Additionally, I was in my shop and want to share with you some additional parts which WILL come in handy during your restoration. Injector Clips and O-Rings.

BWD # 274773 = O Ring Kit for the TPI Rails

Sorensen #800-9417 = Fuel Injector Retention Clips (they may stretch or snap while removing them during injector swap)

Thanks for the mention of the Callaway Owners Group in your clip

In the one post I made above, you can get the o-ring kit from AutoZone to take care of all the ones needed on the fuel rail

The stock injectors were 22 lbs and for 1989-1991, were Rochester Products with the numbers: 1209 5235435 on the top of the body of each

Ford SVO Branded injectors were a popular mod, but that's not what you have.

Your injectors are, as you say, from a Daewoo, which was a car manufacturer owned by GM. Anyways, Rochester Products was another GM subsidiary, and that's why the fuel system was full of their parts in the 80s/90s.

I'd be VERY curious still what each injector ohm reading might be. You can bench test still.

Thanks for sharing, love the videos

Good score on the oil primer, and thank you again for the mention of www.CallawayOwnersGroup.com in your videos







On the "aluminum spray", that's nice, but aluminum is very easily cleaned in a hot tank for most parts. A good machinist or machine shop can help with this, and it's relatively inexpensive. The problem with painting aluminum is that you are just covering dirt/debris, and the "paint" will flake off eventually, regardless of what kind. Spend the time, do it right

Speaking of aluminum, you will find several anodized (Blue) parts on your car. Be careful with those, preserving their finish. The AC Compressor manifold is one, you will see a pulley, some turbo-related fittings, and other stuff, as well.

On the scope, looks like the cylinder heads (casting 10088113) are the 1988-1990 Corvette castings. Once you get the valve covers off, check the rocker arms, they look like they are full roller rocker arms

Keep up the good work! And than you for the continued mention of www.CallawayOwnersGroup.com










If you have not gotten your discount from FIC, here's the current one:

Keep dropping new clips. Here's the latest two:






The triangular black (rusted) pan is a sump for the oil system. The turbos are also water cooled, but you'll find those lines when you remove the banjo fittings off the turbos.

Original catalytic convertors are gone. Those bullet cats might be loaded inside, or not. Will be interesting to see. The 88L-91 cars had two AC cats with a straight pipe in the center, then to a factory Y pipe with the factory sport mufflers and Callaway embossed oval tip.

The disconnected harness beside the transmission *might* be the CAGS plug for the 1-4 skip shift. It was frequently disconnected to avoid skip shift function, but generally plugged w/ caps. Yours is hammered, and tough to tell exactly what it is. Let us know once you trace out the wires.

Keep pushing on, as you're right, this is a great car to save.